The Road to Lent (or one bloggers attempt to avoid meat)

I have a resolution to attend church more. In an effort to stray away from being my self-proclaimed "Catholic-lite", I'm also partaking in Lent. In a New York minute, this means that for all Fridays between now and Easter (starting on and including Ash Wednesday) I will not consume meat. My definition of meat includes beef, pork, chicken, and most land animals. Protein-rich alternatives include seafood, eggs, nuts, and tofu. Seeing that steak and pork products are a few of my favorite things (cue Julie Andrews), this would not be easy. It's like in elementary school where you HAD to read the book and do a report on it. When it comes to food and my childhood, being told what I had to eat was frustrating. In an effort to help some fellow bloggers with the conundrum that is Lent, here are a few places I've tried in the last week. Signature Kitchen (South Coast Plaza) - Costa Mesa I was here picking up some concert tickets, and decided to spend my pre-workout dinner in this new take on a food court. Three culinary tastes all under one roof. The best part is being able to order off any menu at the register. Local favorite Nancy Silverton features some fresh mozzarella sandwiches, grilled Gruyere, and a tuna melt panini. Her secret is the La Brea Bakery bread used. When in doubt, just go with the special: Any half sandwich/panini with a house salad or cup of soup for $6.95. East coast's Marcus Samuelsson showcases his love of all natural, black Angus burgers. There's also a mahi mahi sandwich, feta salad, and the only selection with french fries *and* sweets. Iron Chef Cat Cora has got her 'que on with fresh global options. Smoking hot vegetable soup, cheddar madeleines, BBQ shrimp, and the option of fire-roasted veggies and smoked mozzarella. There are not only fresh croutons and a drizzle of pesto in the soup bowl, but even more bread served alongside. It is here where I enjoy my soup with cheddar madeleines and include some natural, skin-on fries. The pesto was a delicious touch to my smoking hot bowl. I found this to be a great alternative to the other options on this side of South Coast. Rockin' Baja Coastal Cantina - Newport Beach Decided to check out their OC Restaurant Week dinner special. Four starters and four entrees to choose from (plus dessert) all for $20. Didn't even factor in the tortillas (I had two too many), honey chile butter, chips and trio of dipping options. Carb overload? Yes. Also added a bottomless Caesar for $3, which "serves 1-2".....however, we realized too late that we were charged twice. I began with Tequila Lime Shrimp. Now if I liked corn more, I probably would've ordered the lobster corn chowder instead. I couldn't tell if my shrimp was portioned specially for restaurant week, but it was kinda minuscule with three pieces. Flavor-wise, it was not bad. Red pepper, cilantro and garlic gave it a little kick. Round two were their Tacos del Patron - beer battered slipper lobster tails with avo, onion, tomato, cabbage and sauce wrapped in flour tortillas. There were also rice and ranchero beans (more filler!) To tell you the truth, I don't even remember the fried ice cream. Maybe I just gave up at that point? The man began with the Caesar and ended with Rocky's Original Big Baja Bucket (a non-practicing dinner companion). For about $25, he was very pleased with delivery of carne asada, grilled chicken, Baja shrimp and lobster tails. Only required utensils for his sides! How very Man vs. Food. There was something for everyone that night. The standby: The Veggie Grill at Irvine Spectrum Can I tell you how much I enjoy this place? Seriously, if I forget where I am and just concentrate on the food ~ it tastes like chicken (or carne asada, as I had last Friday). Add some sweet potato fries (which I've had heated debates about how they counter those at The Counter) and you're set. I was a little "meh" on the chili, but steamin' kale is a good option too. I vouch for any of the "chickin'" entrees. Their Revolution iced teas are fantastic. I get bartendery and blend based on my mood. Somewhere I've been looking forward to: Fukada off Irvine Center Drive Tucked in one of those neighborhood centers (The Commons, to be exact) is the little non-chain that could, a Japanese space called Fukada. I've been craving their udon for a few weeks now, and since my lunch hour is so late in the day - it's the perfect time to go. As long as there's still a slight chill in the air, it's udon weather! Next week for me - deciding if I want my fish and chips from The Olde Ship (Santa Ana) or that place ...what's that name . .. . I found last year off Tustin Avenue. Hole in the wall with a super long line. Next door to a 31 flavors I think. Anyone?

Top 10 Sushi Restaurants in South OC [Updated]

In the interest of inciting controversy, here is the Top 10 Sushi Restaurants in South OC. We're talking strictly on the quality of the sushi. And indeed, this list is based on purely objective, scientific criteria, and the relative rankings are inviolate. ;-) However, if there is a restaurant missing, there is indeed the possibility that I haven't eaten there, although the likelier possibility is that it didn't make the cut. Sorry. [Update: And of course, thanks Zach for reminding me of a place that indeed was missing, but that I had eaten at. :-) ] Update April 1, 2009: Dropped Bluefin due to declining quality, moved Ayame up for inventive omakase. Update March 26, 2010: Dropped Ayame due to change in head chef. Added Ohshima in Orange. Sushi Wasabi, Tustin. The king of them all down here. Yes, the restaurant is inexplicably closed for weeks at a time around major holidays in an unpredictable fashion. Yes, the restaurant is inexplicably closed at lunch well before the the posted closing time. But the quality of the fish is outstanding. The best we've had by a significant margin. The blue crab hand roll is sublime, with the crunch of the nori and creamy, but not too creamy filling next to the warm and lightly vinegary sushi rice. Right now is apparently ankimo (monkfish liver) season, which makes it especially tasty. You also don't want to miss the Kumamoto oysters, tiny oysters perched on columns of salt, served with ponzu sauce. These are the only oysters I'll eat. "Tuna from Japan ... Oysters from Seattle ... Uni from Santa Barbara" I can hear their voices in my dreams, sometimes. Then I know it's time to eat. My review, Elmo's. Ikko, Costa Mesa. Funky interior, with a signature of Hideki Matsui inset in the wall with its own lighting. The menu is as long as it is incomprehensible. Let the itamae serve you until you're full or broke, whichever comes first. Imaginative sushi, and in the times we've eaten there, never a wrong note, never a stray bit of gristle, never an off taste. Sushi Murasaki, Santa Ana. Dark horse contender. A neighborhood sushi joint, almost looks like the current ownership took it over from a failed sushi restaurant before, and barely remade anything of the interior. Where they do spend time and attention is on the quality of the fish. Kind of like a Matsuhisa-lite, with a focus on special sauces for each fish, and an affinity for the blowtorch. Don't even bother filling your soy sauce plate if you order the omakase. :-) Shibucho, Costa Mesa. Value king. Amazing prices for the quality in a tiny little postage stamp sized restaurant. Maybe it seats 20. Usually less, with little "Reserved" placards on the tables often taking up two of the (three?) tables. Family business, Shibutani-san, his son, and his wife serving large slabs of fresh fish. If you sit at a table and ask for omakase, it comes on a large plate all at once. Sit at the bar for that if you can. My review, Elmo's. [Dropped from 3 to 5 on April 1] Bluefin, Newport Coast. Takashi Abe demonstrating that you just can't make the dishes without him. Namesake "Abe" didn't survive his departure Bluefin is a smaller space, furnished in a modern style with a sushi bar that literally glows from within. If only they'd spent a little more on sound baffling. The raging egos of the customers cause name-dropping, n-figure dollar conversations to crash like waves on a pier, making this not the space for intimate conversation. However, the originality of his creations, and the beauty of the presentation are a sight to behold. Would be ranked higher if not for occasional inconsistency in quality of the fish, ranging from sublime to merely "good" on occasion. For the prices, fear of the occasional "good" drops Bluefin a notch. Unfortunately, inconsistency is starting to look like a pattern of diminishing returns. My review, Elmo's. [Added Feb 16] Maki-Zushi, Tustin. Indeed I forgot this restaurant, but had eaten there several times. Not recently though, and even now, I'm not ranking it as highly as the best of the fish served would otherwise indicate, and here's why: it's kind of Frankensteinian. I mean, there's the Live menu, which contains some of the best, and most far-flung sushi varieties you're likely to find anywhere, much less anywhere in OC. The razor clam and the fresh uni stand out especially in my mind. And then, there's what seems to be the menu for the rest of 'em, the plebes, including many of the bread and butter comfort food type sushi, like salmon, and tuna. These are occasionally dipping into kaiten-sushi quality, which is almost understandable, given the sushi chef's previous stint at Frying Fish, which is a long-lived restaurant in Little Tokyo. It's almost like Sakamoto-san was a bit fearful about losing any customers, and instead has a restaurant that caters to all of them, and yet not me, by extension. Because I usually want a sublime piece of salmon and yellowtail to go along with my exotic varieties. Elmo's review. [Added March 26, 2010] Ohshima, Orange. In the grand tradition of bland strip-mall exteriors leading to another world on the other side of the noren, this small sushi bar with a few tables is not much larger than Shibucho. Sit at the bar, and peruse the specials board and read about an amazing variety of fresh fish you will not often find elsewhere. Some of them you will, and some of them have interesting translations into English that will seem unfamiliar. However, the fish is wonderful, and the chef's take is a unique blend of the traditional and the modern. Angotei, Costa Mesa. In the little strip mall that fronts Mitsuwa Marketplace. Another of the neighborhood type joints that just does sushi right. I visit fairly rarely, and on occasion get the feeling that this is another of the places where you're better off having "paid your dues", so to speak. When the sushi chefs know you, your service is a bit faster, and the fish is a bit better. This is generally true, but more so in some places than others. Koi-san, Orange. Classic sushi, a bit ponzu-happy, but on the whole quite good. At #9, we're talking more "good" than great, but it's a decent restaurant at a reasonable price. Not too crowded either, which is a plus for me. Hamamori, Costa Mesa. Okay, James Hamamori puts his best foot forward for his eponymous South Coast location. His best foot forward is basically a cut above his Wasa locations. I'd guess perhaps this is what his Wasa locations were like in the very beginning, perhaps. The ishiyaki beef is fragrant and tasty, and there are a few Sushi Treasures which are unique to this location, including copious amounts of caviar. The restaurant itself is beautiful, tall windows and bright lights, clean white decor. Costs are sky high, but occasionally good deals present themselves during restaurant weeks. My Restaurant Week review. Wasa, Irvine. Maybe it's the sentimental favorite- I admit it's primarily nearby and convenient. The service is hit or miss, since they're perpetually understaffed, but during the week, the sushi can range from "good" to "pretty good". They also serve tempura ice cream, which gets them bonus points, and their shrimp tempura is also pretty good. [Dropped March 28, 2010. Moved from 8 to 7 on April 1, 2009] Ayame, Irvine. Our neighborhood place. It started off a bit rocky, being an outpost of Zipangu in the Lab at Costa Mesa, but has come into its own. Their $28 3-course omakase tends to come with a sashimi salad option, a full sized entree, and a dessert. Good value. Their $65 6-course omakase is a steal, usually costing much closer to $100 for the quality of the courses. They've expanded the kinds of fish they serve, and last time I ate there, I actually had a couple of fish I'd never heard of. Which rarely happens these days. Butterfly fish? Anyway, it tasted pretty good. Their amaebi (sweet shrimp) is often fresh, occasionally sitting in a little basket right by the sushi bar. Service at the tables is just as good as at the bar, and so it's convenient for eating with the kids. My review, Griffin's. So there you have it. Let me know if I've missed anything- I'd love more than anything to push a few entries down the list. Hopefully I've listed a few that you haven't tried (Murasaki?), that you may enjoy.

Hamamori, South Coast Plaza 4 Courses, 40 Dollars Event

Thanks to my buddy Sharon, who let me know that South Coast Plaza is having a 4 courses for $40 (per person) event (*) from now [well, last Friday actually] through Sunday (click on the event title in the bottom right hand corner to see menus) at the following restaurants: Marché Moderne Antonello Ristorante Pinot Provence Charlie Palmer at Bloomingdale's Quattro Caffé Hamamori Restaurant-Lounge Royal Khyber Fine Indian Cuisine Scott's Seafood Grill & Bar SAVANNAH Supper Club & Lounge We ate at Hamamori, which has been occasionally criticized as overly expensive. This, however, was refreshingly not (at least in my opinion). The four courses were a Kobe carpaccio, an appetizer trio, a selection of sushi, and then a black cod. The carpaccio was very lightly flavored, so the taste of the meat was very apparent. It's a little different from the ones I'm used to, which tend to be drizzled in an oil, like sesame oil. The presentation was pretty typical, with thin slices arranged in a circular overlapping pattern on a round plate (much like those plates of raw shabu shabu meat you get in the supermarket, except with a salad in the middle instead of a strange yellow plastic flower). Taste was, well, let's go with different. Sometimes different is good, and I was okay with a more meaty version of the dish. The appetizer trio was a couple pieces of wrapped asparagus, a breaded and fried meatball made with kobe beef, allegedly, but was basically ground and then fried, so it was hard to tell, and a little Japanese eggroll with crab. The meatball was ehh, the asparagus had a fresh crunch to it that was light and good, and the eggroll with crab was nicely done. However, the dish itself was a bit heavily weighted to the fried side, so I'd recommend making sure you have something like an iced tea to counteract. The sushi set was a small platter with single pieces of basically new versions of Wasa Treasures. We had a tuna, an albacore, a scallop which was drizzled with sea salt and yuzu, and a salmon. A couple slices of shrimp-infused egg provided the garnish. The sauces are much like you'd expect from Wasa, except that they don't have these particular combinations there, and the fish itself was a bit fresher. Basically Hamamori is kind of what you'd expect from a "Wasa Plus". The decor's a bit nicer, the food's a bit fresher, and the service is superior by far. The cooked fish, however, was the star of the four courses. This was cooked just right, so it was barely done, soft and juicy, but not at all translucent in the middle. I wish I knew how to do this, but I do know it's not easy to get both the heat and the timing just so, so the whole fish cooks this way. The sauce was a nice accompaniment, but I found myself using as little of it as possible, so well was the fish itself prepared. It needed no disguise. Much like sushi- it's hard to improve on the natural taste of a well-selected and fresh fish. I contend in some ways that cooking fish is harder than making sushi, because the act of cooking fish at all confers a disadvantage over sushi that has to be overcome by effort and skill. They just about did that here. Dessert was not included in Hamamori's set, although they seem to be in most others. We chose to share a granité, flavored with melon. It would've made a nice amuse, but as a standalone, it was almost too much iciness. The Hamamoritini though was nicely executed, clean tasting, and warming to the stomach. A nice accompaniment to sushi. *Does not include beverages, tax or gratuity. Not valid with other offers, promotions or private dining groups. Dine-in and dinner only, please.

Charlie Palmer - South Coast Plaza (Costa Mesa)

I'd been waiting a very long time for this to come to fruition. For the first two weeks, they had conducted a soft opening for friends and media. We obtained a seating on their second day live. Dressed in my new LBD and pearls, we debated whether to enter through SCP or make a grand entrance from the exterior. We chose the more formal route, and were pleased by what we saw. The signature design element echoed in other Palmer properties, a prominent wall of wine, grandly welcomed us. While our hostess checked on the table, we peered down a flight of stairs and spotted what appeared to be both wine cellar and private dining. Too timid to inquire, we patiently stood by and admired the sleek bar just beyond us. Later on I discover they offer a separate (but just as tempting) appetizer menu, securing my decision on a future visit. I was impressed at how much seating was offered back there. Before we could contemplate further, it was time to enter the dining room. As far as modern cuisine goes, the next detail took the cake. He was handed the eWinebook. Imagine your pda expanded to a laptop monitor. I recall tablet pc prototypes a decade ago being tested, but never experienced one with such a service-oriented purpose. You could bookmark favorites for questioning the sommelier. Sorting by region or varietal? No problem! We probably spent a good 15 minutes ogling over selections. I ultimately decided on their cocktail list, a vino fresco. Mild and fruity, it would sustain me until our first course. He was recommended a glass of the Franz Kunstler German Riesling, dry and softly sweet. CP is divided up into three categories: first, main, and vegetable/starch. Having been to his Grand Central station brasserie Metrazur, we were comfortable with most of the selections. It was a matter of craving...and room for dessert. After much debate, we place our orders and survey the room. A mild mannered couple in one corner, stylish quartet of men across the way, Asian family with well behaved child past the partition, and a smattering of Newportesque couples along the window view. Oh wait, a few tables of six - - generally, surrounded by a crowd that's 15+ years older than us. Normal by our standards. A recurring theme in tonight's dining experience was BIG. Like Mr. Big. Larger than life. Abundant in portion and flavor. Often times fine dining is associated with having not only a hefty price tag, but minuscule servings "like elf food" as the diner observes. This was definitely not the case. What sat before me was a hunk of crisp pork belly. Melon, pickled onion, and aged sherry vinegar gave a flavor counter, but my eyes glazed over the portion. Really, I was starting to get satiated towards the end of course one. Shrimp kabobs "you had me at tamarind" a la plancha were elegantly presented and plated in front of J. Shellfish silently slid off their skewers with the aid of our server and an oversized pair of silver tongs. Caponata (eggplant) salad played a modest supporting role. Skipping to the vegetables and starches, (because what grand meal doesn't have them) we begin with trumpet royale mushrooms. Shaped the way it is named and sliced into fifths, I buckled at the fourth. Quite the meaty side, we continue with some crispy fries accompanied by a little chipotle aioli. A slightly creamy consistency - in a good way - on the inside, I related them to a firmer version of a steak cut fry. And then they placed the gargantuan green asparagus. After a brief, tense moment (WTF! We did not order that), I politely verbalize my sentiments. Whether they played it off or actually were sincere, the steamed vege was a gift to us for dining with them. Awww.... His favorite of the courses, our seafood mains delivered big. Maine sea scallops were impeccably prepared. I sat awestruck at my crispy skin Pacific sea bass. Atop melted Maui onion and mushroom soy, I was speechless. You don't see these portions served unless your name has a Factory or Claim in the title. I made a concerted effort to finish. I took breathers between courses and marveled at the warm modern decor, reminiscent of the Viceroy Santa Monica. The staff was sharply dressed in beige chef coat jackets. Various team members would inquire about our satisfaction throughout the meal. The attention was mildly intoxicating. Desserts were a blur of richness - vanilla braised pineapple with brown sugar cake, a gianduja of indulgent chocolate, and a praline tart danced between us. I cannot recall the unusual ice cream flavor, but no bother. The most modest of the portions, I was perfectly fine, since everything prior was so indulgent I could barely eat more. What made this so reminiscent of New York exploits was our parting gift. We received little 'presents' everywhere we ate on our trip. Here, it was chocolate (powder) covered cashews. I savored every scrumptious bite like a serving of caviar. Truly a welcome addition to the county.

Onotria Wine Country Cuisine -- Costa Mesa

I felt a little silly making reservations, since dinner with the visiting job candidate would be early -- 5:30 -- and there would only be four of us on a Wednesday night. Most of my experience with nicer OC restaurants implied that we'd be the only ones there for the first hour. When we arrived at Onotria, we felt even sillier, handing over our car for the complimentary but mandatory valet parking, as it would have taken us all of five seconds to pull into one of the many empty spaces ourselves. But we followed protocol, like well-socialized diners. As expected, we were the first to arrive in the dining room, shortly after it opened at 5:30, but I was surprised at how quickly it filled up. A large party started arriving by the time my wine was poured, and all but two of the tables in the main room were occupied by 6:30. The place was jumping! Well, jumping in a "somewhat older than we used to be, but hey, now we can afford great wine and excellent food" kind of way. Before I first went to Onotria, I had read many glowing reviews about the food. My high expectations have not quite been met, but I keep going back for more. Why? Because Onotria never bores me. You may know what I mean. So many restaurants around here have lovely settings, well-dressed waiters, fancy plating, pricey menus, and the same, dull, bland food that every other restaurant is serving. (Yawn...) By contrast, Onotria's menu consists of interesting combinations of strong flavors that keep surprising me. Onotria sometimes annoys me, but I have yet to find it dull. And on my never-ending quest for good food in Orange County, I find I'd rather risk being annoyed. Case in point: on a previous visit, my vegetable soup was unusually bitter. This was interesting -- since when is vegetable soup bitter? -- and could have been fine, but it was one-dimensional. It needed some bass notes to counteract the high-pitched squeal. A cabbage risotto with truffles was also too bitter: a sharp attack of a dish that needed a soothing round touch to smooth things over. I had the much-recommended pheasant on that trip, and found the bird to be delicious. However, the raisin and pine nut sauce was a bit too sweet, and although I liked it at first, it seemed to become sweeter and stickier with every bite until it was downright cloying. On the other hand, the seafood soup was interesting, if a bit under-salted. And the eggplant bruschetta blew my socks off: how can something as simple as smoked eggplant on toast taste so amazing? I didn't know, and didn't care -- and I didn't share, either. My meal this time hit more high notes and fewer low notes, I'm happy to say. The service was spot on, and I'm not just saying that because our waiter was of the especially handsome and charming Italian variety. Water and bread came quickly. The bread was warm and soft and good, although I was surprised to see it served with butter instead of olive oil. The wine my waiter suggested was new to me and interesting -- something from the bar that night that was white and tangy and full-bodied and whose name I never quite caught. His suggestion was especially welcome, because for a restaurant that has "wine" in its name, the menu has a distressingly short list of wines by the glass. Speaking of the menu, Onotria's is unnecessarily confusing. Again, they push away from the predictable, which I applaud, but then veer straight into the problematic. Instead of dishes being listed by type -- e.g., appetizers, soups, entrees -- they have some dishes listed that way, and others listed by what type of wines they best match. It's an interesting idea, and the wine suggestions are certainly welcome, but it complicates the process of finding, say, all the fish entrees. I had planned to eat lightly, but that failed as soon as I heard about the specials, or more specifically, the foie gras appetizer. I find it difficult to resist foie gras, and I'm glad I didn't this time. The foie gras itself was meltingly tender with the tiniest taste of gaminess: just enough to remind the tongue to stop and appreciate what is visiting it before letting it go. It was set on a piece of fried bread, surrounded by the first of three moats of wine sauce that my dishes would feature that night. The bread was scrumptious. In fact, I kept poking at it, trying to figure out what it was. The texture was just too perfect: soft enough to soak up the wine sauce for added flavor, while remaining crunchy enough on the outside to act as a contrast to the foie gras. It couldn't be just fried bread (but it was, as I checked later). The sauce was well executed too: flavorful, not too sweet, not too anything else either. After finishing the rest of the dish, I unceremoniously dipped more bread into the sauce, reluctant to let any of it go to waste. The only odd notes were a swig of rosemary that was so large that I felt I was excavating under it to get to my food, and some unidentifiable little, um, things scattered around the plate. I'm pretty sure they were dried fruits. That's what they looked like, at least. Too big to be raisins or dried cranberries. Too small to be plums. Too soaked in the wine sauce to taste like much of anything else. I kept tasting each one carefully, but ran out before I figured out what they were. The other diners had soup, which they seemed to like just fine. But to tell you the truth, I was so fascinated with my appetizer that I think I might have forgotten to look up the entire time. Was I too obviously ignoring my companions? I hope not. Next thing I knew, poof, appetizers are done and it's on to the entrees. My entree was odd. But then, I knew that when I ordered it, and I got what I asked for: tempura sea bass, with grilled eggplant and Kalamata olives in a Zinfandel reduction sauce. The tempura was excellent, with a big crunch, imparting the taste of quality batter and oil without even a hint of greasiness. The problem was that the flavor of the fish was all but lost inside all that wonderful crust, and all that was left was its soft texture. It seemed a waste of what I assume was a quality fish. The eggplant was fine, if unremarkable (perhaps my hopes were too high on that score), and matched well with the tasty wine sauce. The olives, however, were all wrong. What were they thinking? The flavors of the olives and the sauce clashed riotously: two great things that taste horrible together. I tried a second olive, and then a third, trying to will myself into "seeing" the combination function well, and I just couldn't get it to work. Yuck. Ah well, at least it wasn't boring. And the olives were separate from the rest of the dish, so they didn't interfere with it. Carter had another of the specials: fried quail with boar sausage over polenta. The polenta was creamy, and I noticed him mixing it with the sauce and finishing off every last bite. I had a taste of the sausage and it was good, although not as good as it should be. It's true that I'm a snob about sausage, but there it is: this sausage needed more. More spices. More flavor. Maybe more boar. One of our companions had the pheasant, which he enjoyed. I asked him if he found the sauce to be sweet, and he did, but he liked it that way. To each his own. At least I know now that it wasn't a fluke that mine was sweet on that previous visit. Then, dessert. Before I forget, I must compliment Onotria on their decaffeinated coffee. The others ordered cappuccino or espresso, but since I had an early morning the next day, I ordered just plain decaf. This is always a risky proposition, especially as I drink my coffee without benefit of sugar or cream to mask a bad brew. Most restaurants can't even get regular coffee right, and their decaf is even worse. But this was rich, full-bodied, and not the least bit bitter. I was almost worried it wasn't decaffeinated, but my quick lights-out early that evening seemed to confirm that it was. The four of us ordered four different desserts, but since this was a work rather than personal dinner, I didn't end up trying anyone else's desserts. They looked good, though: the crème brûlée had a well-torched topping, the zabaglione came with big chunks of fruit, and they didn't skimp on the serving of creamy-looking pistachio gelato. Still, I'm glad I ordered the poached pear in, yes, yet another wine sauce. The presentation was nice, with the pear sliced almost to the stem end and fanned out in the middle of a wide, shallow bowl, surrounded by the dark red liquid, with a large dollop of crème anglaise perched precariously on the pear. The texture of the pear was perfect, precisely between not soft enough and falling apart. It somehow managed to retain its pear flavor while also being transformed by the wine. The closest I can come to describing the flavor is: loud, bright, and sleek. The essence of the fruit -- both pear and wine -- was pared down and intensified, producing a powerful flavor punch that stayed true to the end of the dish, without getting either overpowering or dulled. The crème anglaise was a creamy rejoinder to the rest of the dish, but the logistics were tricky. The cream kept slipping off the wet pear and landing in the wine moat, where it immediately began to dissolve. Armed only with a fork and knife, I rescued as much as I could, but precious bits of dairy goodness slipped through the tines and were lost forever. By the time we retrieved our car from the parking valet -- who was tipped well for not grinding the gears in our stick shift -- we were well-fed and satisfied. All in all, it was a perfectly interesting meal, in a welcoming room, with courteous and competent staff. I'll definitely be back. Onotria Wine Country Cuisine 2831 Bristol, Costa Mesa CA 714-641-5952 www.onotria.com

Rooster Cafe - Costa Mesa

When I dine out on a Saturday night, I'm even hungrier the next morning. Can't explain it, but that's how I am. I was jonesing for some pancakes or waffles. Had an excuse to venture somewhere new, but WHERE?! After some debate (and correspondence with my CM-centric yoga partner) I decided it was time to hit up Rooster Cafe. Worst case scenario, I'd cross the street to Memphis if it didn't work out. And away we go. The former spot of Mitae Ramen (pause to pay respect to the little old lady) is about 30 seats large, indoors and out, with even fewer parking spots. The menu is posted chalkboard-like above the register slash kitchen. With maybe a dozen or so items total, your options are straightforward. The breakfast burrito appeared popular, but I stuck to my guns and asked for some French toast. Ok, I also got a side of Portugese sausage. Came out to $6.50. There's also a great cereal option, but I forgot to ask what was available. Lunch entrees include BLT-style sandwiches, a cobb, and the elusive French dip. Wanted to take a moment to touch upon the beverage options. Soda fountain, iced tea, Mexican cocoa (they were out), Izze bottles, and beer. Bottles for $4.50. For a place whose hours on the weekends accommodate bar closings, I found it kinda funny (only because I'm not a beer drinker). 7am to 3pm most of the week, with another 10pm to 3am stint on Saturday and Sunday. Back to the breakfast. I think there was a total staff of three covering the joint. If they weren't cooking, there was cashiering and bussing left to do. Very informal order taking at the register. With these prices, it was fine by me. We took the counter seats and read the paper. I took in my surroundings. As I remembered from my MR days, two walls were completely glass windowed. The back had four cubic light fixtures against a rusty red accent wall. That was about it. When it comes to eating breakfast, I am over the moon if there's more to it than the food. This was a clean, well-lit diner. A short time later (10 minutes or less), my cashier slash server presented me with an oval black dish. Simply plated were four half slices of Texas sized toast with powdered sugar sprinkled all around. A smallish plate sat beside me with six bites of Portugese meat. Maybe I could've eaten more, but as I cleaned my plates empty I changed my mind. This was just enough sustenance to last me to our late lunch/early dinner. A little savory, a little sweet, a lot of comfort. I need to start planning for next Sunday. Dim sum anyone? Rooster Cafe 750 Saint Clair Street Costa Mesa, CA 92626 714.754.1944 btw - If anyone can explain the purpose of the two rice cookers, I'd be interested. There's no rice on the menu whatsoever. Perhaps it's slow cooking the French dip?

Old Vine Cafe - Costa Mesa

It was a fulfilling Saturday morning. I did something for my health - spin class I did something for my man - bought him a trash can at IKEA I did something for charity - donated to workingwardrobes.org I did something for the community - I supported a local business (more on that shortly) and I did something for the environment - I purchased a cruelty-free handbag by mattandnat.com All in all, a rather productive 5 hours. Old Vine Cafe fell into my radar maybe in the last week or so, upon reading a posting on Costa Mesa options. I enjoy just about everything to eat in this city, so after perusing their menu I decided to give it a go. Located at The Camp (across from The Lab/anti-mall - the ingenious non-SCP-like spot owned by the folks who own SCP) and strategically placed behind Native Foods, but next to Aire. This is a new joint which opened in the last few months. Quoting the website, this is where the name originates from: The cafe gets its name from the ancient vines of the old world wines of western Europe. "Old vines" are synonymous with wines of a unique quality, expressing the earth in which they are grown through the flavor of the grapes. Oh, and they've got a tiny retail section where you can purchase specialty produce, meats, and oils. For a small space, they sure know how to seat a crowd. I staked my claim at one of the counter chairs. In front of me, a surreal view of the 'forest' that only the Camp can offer. If not for all the chatter, I imagine it would mimic a holodeck request (middle of the woods) on the Enterprise. Outdoor seating is also available for four-legged dining companions (one server offered up a dish of water to one owner's pet). My menu was artfully attached to a lovely stretched canvas painting. The placesetting was accented with a small block vase. Thoughtful details that I adore. As I scanned over my options, I overheard a couple of guys comparing notes on how to cater a decent house party. One clearly thought food was more of an afterthought (because of all the lefover food you have afterwards) while the other explained how he recruited his neighbor to BBQ for him. Alrighty. Savory or sweet? I ask myself this very question throughout the day. The breakfast menu was simply divided. Do I want the syrupy sweet french toast or the hearty portion of omelet with Spanish style potatoes, choice of toast and marmalade? I leaned for the hearty (as usual). If not for my dinner at Punch Grill that night, I would've dived into that BBQ omelet. Instead, it was the Omelet Espana for me. Ole! I hoped to request fewer mushrooms, but was informed that the ingredients for this particular dish were already pre-mixed. No problem. Life could've made me wait longer for a seat...so I was just thankful to be served. I also chose the egg bread and blackberry marmalade (to go with my blackberry sage bottled ice tea. A bit overrated, if you ask me - the tea, I mean). After a short while ~ which only FELT like forever because I was famished ~ I was served. I forgot how tasty proscuitto is. Mmmmmmm. Add to it some artichoke hearts, red bell peppers, shitake mushrooms, and Manchego cheese and we've got ourselves a winner. My expectations on the bread were pretty high, but I was (unfortunately) disappointed. Should've stuck to the wheat or sourdough, but I had to get all non-conformist. I bet the marmalade would've been excellent with those. Nevertheless, my potatoes more than made up for it. Chunky and saucy, they starched me out for the rest of the afternoon. Whatever they were smothered in was a welcome change from the standard hashy/fried fare served elsewhere. I wish my trainer could've joined me, but that's what repeat visits are made for. As much as I'd like to keep this spot to myself, I want to see them succeed. Old Vine Cafe 2937 Bristol Street Suite A-102 Costa Mesa 714.545.1411

Pacific Whey vs Ruby's ~ So Cal chains in Crystal Court

One Camp Pendleton Mud Run and a best friend's wedding later, I'm back. Hungrier than ever. I found myself at South Coast Plaza on multiple Saturday morns recently, and decided to put two of my favorite chains (for breakfast, there aren't really many that rank) to the test. In one corner, the chic eats of Pacific Whey Cafe. In the opposite corner, (with 25 years of service under their belt) - Ruby's Diner. Let the smackdown begin! I remember trying to find Pacific Whey for the first time. Newport Hills was not easy to locate. Then they expanded to Crystal Cove. Great location, but cramped seating. It took forEVER for SCP Crystal Court to finally open. By the time I finally checked in, it had been running for two months. Here they've got the parking, the table space, the location, and the unforgettable pastry case. What a lovely place to see and be seen. Fantastic people watching, but I digress. I will tell you right now that I don't care for anything that isn't brekkie or pastry here. I went for the grilled vegetable omelette. My eggcellent feast of zucchini, yellow squash, and sweet bell peppers co-mingled with a fruit medley, potatoes, and hearty multi-grain toast. Service was spot on. My table was spacious. The servers/bussers were efficient. The food, eggsactly what I expected -- fresh, flavorful, pleasing to the eye...except. Well, I felt the portion sizes were smaller than I remember. Breakfast is supposed to be affordable, right? My $8.95 just seemed sparse. My trainers agreed. I think I just paid for my locale. (sigh) Next, I shoo-be-do-be-do down to the candystriper. With dark hair and brown eyes, what's not to admire about her? {Going COMPLETELY off topic, they have some rockin' fish tacos here. I don't expect anyone to believe me [cough, Christian Z., cough : ) ], but hey, for me - they are delish} I must've deliberated for a good half hour before placing. I chose the skinny eggs with Eggbeaters (hey, I'm attempting healthly eating!). It was mixed with housemade salsa, and served alongside low-fat cottage cheese, wheat toast and fresh fruit. Oh yes, and I had to get some smoked bacon. Mmmmmm.....bacon. A reasonable enough comparison to my competitor. Except this time, I order to go. Things were meticulously packaged and labeled with smiley faces. It was quite a spread, actually. Pricing was almost identical to Pacific Whey, bacon included. Sure, I sat outside NikeStore with my meal in my lap. But this was really nice. Eggs were segreated in their own covered container, and were light with a tiny kick. Bacon kept its distance in a roomy holder. Those four smoked strips were heavenly. Flavors were intact. I have no complaints. I was content... not factoring my leg falling asleep. Sure, maybe you'll just go to Champagne French Bakery instead (saw an ad for their new breakfast crepe next to the escalator. wonder how it is...) Or you'll be elsewhere. Either way, you've got options. http://www.pacificwhey.com/menu.html http://www.rubysdiner.com/food/breakfast.html

Charlie Palmer @ South Coast Plaza - coming soon

I was in NYC for Thanksgiving week. We wined, we dined, we got engaged. Some of the most splendid dinners I've experienced thus far were over there. I could only wish for some of those chefs to imagine coming out to the West Coast. I guess the wish fairy was smiling down on me. We found out earlier this year that Tom Colicchio was serving up a little Craft in Century City. I was elated. Somewhere I didn't have to fly to. THEN I hit the preview night at Bloomies South Coast Plaza and get even better news. Charlie Palmer has designs on a concept {plus wine store!} inside the department store this winter (I'm not holding my breath for fall). Lemme tell you, CP's Metrazur inside of Grand Central Station was a treat. This will surely knock my shoes off (i don't usually sport socks). He has an eye for style and a mind for great menus. When the time comes to celebrate that special occassion -- book that reservation and utilize the valet. This is where fine dining is going to meet high fashion. And no, I don't know why I have this tendancy to rave about places yet to open....I just like talking about good food.

New Pinkberry-clone in Costa Mesa

It seems the frozen yogurt phenomenon is finally spreading like a contagious rash down in our area. This one's going to be located next to Video Tokyo, in the same plaza as Hashigo and Oki Doki, on Paularino and Bristol. The flapping banner reads: "COMING SOON: Fresh Berries and Yogurt"

Chubbypanda's Ten Best Ethnic Meals of 2006 (Orange County)

Earlier this week, I received an email from Lindsay William-Ross, Food Editor for LAist, inviting me to participate in their end-of-the-year Ten Best series. After no small amount of agonizing, I've put together a list of Orange County places where I had the ten best "ethnic" meals this year. (Read this article on LAist and check out their other great offerings!) 1. Japanese - Frenzy Sushi (my review) The freshness and quality of the fish served at Frenzy Sushi is amazing. The Hamachi no Hara (yellowtail belly), Saba (marinated mackerel), and Maguro (Bluefin tuna) are must-haves here. If you like rolls, order the Firecracker or Caterpillar. Frenzy Sushi 369 E 17th St, #17 Costa Mesa, CA 92627 1-949-646-1333 http://www.frenzysushi.com 2. Chinese (Shanghai) - New Shanghai (my review) Delightfully cheap and delicious, the fiery flavors of the Shanghai, Sichuan, and Hunan cuisine dishes served at New Shanghai are perfect for a cold winter's night. I highly recommend the Niu Rou Mian (Beef Noodle Soup), Gong Bao Ji Ding (Kung Pao Chicken), and Zhao Liu Yu Pian (Fish Filets in Wine Sauce). New Shanghai 5408 Walnut Ave # B Irvine, CA 92604 (Open until midnight every night.) 3. Vietnamese - Pagolac (my review) I first tried Bo Bay Mon (Seven Courses of Beef) at Pagolac and it was a dining revelation. Even better were the Bo Nuong Vi (Grilled Beef) and Tom Nuong Vi (Grilled Shrimp). Although you may be a little leery of sampling Mam Nem (fermented shrimp sauce), take the plunge and you'll experience a true flavor sensation. Pagolac 14580 Brookhurst St. Westminster, CA 92683 1-714-531-4740 4. Peruvian - Peruvian Kitchen (my review) Peruvian food is one of the world's ultimate fusion cuisines, and Peruvian Kitchen delivers the complex blend of flavors and influences for a very reasonable price. Try the Tiradito al Aji (a carpaccio of fish marinated in a spicy sauce), the Anticuchos de Corazon (grilled pieces of seasoned beef heart), and the Yucca a la Huancaina (cassava cheese puffs covered in a spicy cream sauce. Peruvian Kitchen 8610 Warner Ave. Fountain Valley, CA 92708-3132 1-714-847-7555 http://www.peruviankitchen.com 5. Fusion - Elephant Bar (my review) A chain restaurant with both style and substance, the Elephant Bar in Irvine offers a number of Asian-fusion dishes as well as Western classics. Try the Coconut Shrimp or the Miso Grilled Salmon. Additional locations are available throughout Southern California. Elephant Bar Irvine, CA 14346 Culver Dr. 1-949-651-6087 http://www.elephantbar.com 6. Mexican - Lucia's Tacos and Mulitas (my review) Do not be dissuaded by this hole-in-the-wall's less than classy atmosphere. Lucia's Tacos and Mulitas is packed to the gills with authentic Mexican flavors. You haven't lived until you've tried their Tacos de Cabeza (beef cheek), Tacos de Lengua (beef tongue), or Tacos al Pastor (rotisserie grilled pork). For an early morning pick-me-up, grab a steaming bowl of their spicy Menudo (beef tripe soup) and get some Pan Dulse (sweet buns) to go. Lucia's Tacos and Mulitas (corner of Beach and Warner) 16952 Beach Blvd. Huntington Beach, CA 92647 1-714-842-2404 (If you have difficulty being understood, ask for Lalo.) 7.Korean - Korea House BBQ (review forthcoming) Nothing warms both body and soul like the rich flavors of the Korean food at Korea House BBQ. With fresh, high quality meat, an excellent selection of complimentary Panchan (cold side dishes), a number of fiery stews, and other classic offerings, Korea House BBQ is the place to go when you want to add some spice to your life. Order up some Ross Gui (prime cut beef) or Bulgogi (marinated beef) to grill and kick back with a beer. Definitely best enjoyed with a group. Korea House BBQ 5305 University Dr. Irvine, CA 92612 1-949-552-9998 http://www.koreahousebbq.com/ 8. Chinese (Dim Sum) - Seafood World (review forthcoming) Seafood World is a Little Saigon institution, and one of the best places in Orange County to get delectable dim sum. Bring all of your friends so you can sample lots and lots of the bite-sized delights. Seafood World 15351 Brookhurst St # 101-106 Westminster, CA 92683 1-714-531-5330 9. Vegan (Thai) - Wheel of Life (review forthcoming) If you've never had vegan Thai cuisine before, stop by Wheel of Life and get your healthy groove on. With a culinary history spanning thousands of years of Buddhist dietary observances, vegan Thai food is good for both the body and soul. Wheel Of Life 14370 Culver Dr # 2 Irvine, CA 92604 1-949-551-8222 http://www.wheelofliferestaurant.com/ 10. Chinese (Islamic) - Lotus Chinese Eatery (my review) One of two locations in all of Orange County serving Islamic Chinese fare, Lotus brings the flavors of Northern China to Southern California. All of their delicious food is prepared according Halal guidelines. Order the Zhi Ma Da Bing Jia Cong (sesame pan bread with green onions) or any of their Chao Dao Xiao Mian (stir-fried knife-cut noodles). I'm also very fond of their Hong Shao Dou Fu (tofu in brown sauce). Lotus Chinese Eatery 16883 Beach Blvd. Huntington Beach, CA 92647 1-714-848-4940